The Plan
For my first overnight venture into the wild, my friend and I decided on a trip to Dartmoor National Park. Our plan was to embark on a two-day, 12km round trip from Belstone, a quaint village on the outskirts of Dartmoor, to High Willhays, the park’s highest tor and the highest peak south of the Brecon Beacons, standing proudly at 621m above sea level.
We knew we would arrive quite late to the national park on the first day, so we checked the online Dartmoor camping map and planned to camp at Scarey tor which is in the permitted camping area and a short walk from Belstone. Our adventure was set, but little did we know what was in store for us.
Our preparation was, in hindsight, somewhat comical. Laden with bulky 20kg backpacks, we brought along an array of unnecessary equipment, including full-sized camping chairs, a 3 man pop-up tent and entire kitchen sets. My friend even packed a bottle of aftershave and a tin of hair wax! Lightweight gear and efficient packing were concepts lost on us at the time, and our overloaded backpacks made for an uncomfortable journey.
The Adventure
Day 1:
Arriving at Belstone even later than planned, we set off into the moor under the bright light of the full moon, our only illumination coming from our phone torches. Despite the late hour, the moonlit landscape was surreal, devoid of any light pollution. We soon reached Scarey Tor, but finding a level spot to pitch our tents proved challenging amidst the rocky terrain. After setting up camp, we cooked dinner and settled in for the night, surrounded by the tranquility of the moor. I will never forget the feeling that night after we went to bed. I just lay by myself in my tent, listening to how quiet it was. It really felt like it was just us and the whole national park.
Day 2:
We rose early, fueled ourselves with breakfast, and eagerly packed up camp, ready to conquer High Willhays. Without an OS map, we relied on Google Maps and intermittent signal to guide us. The day quickly heated up as we trudged onward, our heavy packs weighing us down. Sweat dripped down our foreheads as we pushed through the relentless terrain towards the biggest hill in the distance.
Our journey was fraught with challenges from the start. We ascended what we thought was the tallest hill in our path, only to discover it was Rowtor, not High Willhays. Yet, undeterred, we pressed on, our determination unwavering. As we crested the peak of Rowtor, another tor loomed in the distance, tantalizingly higher than the one we had just conquered. We were both certain it had to be High Willhays, so with renewed vigor, we set our sights on the next challenge.
Our progress was slow but steady. The sun beat down on us mercilessly, each step feeling heavier than the last. But the promise of reaching our goal kept us going. We had finally reached the next peak, but again, our hearts sank when we saw an even bigger tor behind it. After four and a half hours we had now only climbed West Mill tor, and still had the biggest tor to summit. After a quick breather, we headed on towards the next peak.
Finally, after what felt like an eternity, we reached what we believed to be High Willhays. Exhausted but elated, we collapsed onto the rocky summit, our breaths coming in ragged gasps. Yet, as we looked around, a sinking feeling settled in. We had unknowingly summited Yes Tor, not High Willhays. At this point we both decided that as Yes tor is only 2 meters shorter than High Willhays, it definitely counted and therefore despite our mistake, we relaxed and took in the panoramic views of Dartmoor, a breathtaking reward for our efforts.
After a well-deserved rest, we mustered the energy for the long journey back to the car. Guided by our newfound knowledge of the terrain, we made quick progress, sticking to paths and avoiding any unnecessary detours up hills. As we descended from the moors, a sense of accomplishment washed over us, mingled with the realization of just how much we had underestimated the challenge.
Lessons Learned
Reflecting on our adventure during the drive home, we couldn’t help but laugh at our misadventures. Yet, beneath the laughter lay a realisation of our luck. With different weather or a misstep, our journey could have taken a dangerous turn. We resolved to invest in lighter gear, better backpacks, and improved navigation methods for future trips. Despite the challenges, my first wild camping experience left me with an indescribable sense of magic, sparking a desire for more adventures. From the moonlit moors to the unexpected summit of Yes Tor, and not forgetting the surreal feeling when going to sleep, it was an unforgettable journey that fueled my passion for the great outdoors.
.If you want to avoid making the same mistakes we made then check out our beginners guide to wild camping.